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It is a marvel of ingenious engineering, neatly fusing together the standard pigtail worm found on any corkscrew with the two-pronged ah-so, before that time the best specialized way to remove aged and damaged corks. Together they form a sort of double helix in the vinous sky, allowing users to simultaneously screw and pluck a tricky cork in the same swift motion. It is a damn marvel, the Durand. No cork too damaged, no bottle too expensive, no situation too important to be bested by it. Once I opened a bottle of 1970s Barolo table-side at Gene & Georgetti, the iconic Chicago Italian steakhouse, in full view of the restaurant waitstaff, onlooking fellow guests, and my two older brothers. A more high-pressure wine moment I’ve never known, but the Durand performed flawlessly, and our Italian red sang in tribute. For vintage corks, old bottles, and wines of history, the Durand is your best friend.

By Jordan Mechelman